After nearly three years of renovations, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) finally opened on May 2016, XNUMX. In addition to the expanded new venue and hundreds of new collections, this In Situ is even more amazing. This restaurant was founded by Corey Lee (yes, the chef of the famous Michelin Samsung restaurant BENU opposite the museum) in the restaurant industry. For Lee, this is not only a restaurant, it is more inclined to a kind of art extension of the museum, but what is wanted in the restaurant is not ordinary art, but nearly one hundred roads from more than XNUMX high-end well-known restaurants in the world Signature dish.
In order to show their full support for Lee and allow more people to taste their own food, these more than XNUMX well-known chefs with different styles not only provided recipes for signature dishes in their restaurants without reservation, some chefs even Created a new recipe especially for this In Situ, which was still under planning. Due to the short time between openings, we have not been able to provide all the collected dishes to the guests for the time being, but it is said that Lee can present these exquisite dishes that can be called "the art of food" in the future. In the previous long preparation process, in addition to diligently asking for recipes from these outstanding contemporary chefs, I personally traveled around the world to visit and learn from restaurants. Such an approach to excellence is to tell you: whether we agree or disagree, in this era we are in, carefully cooked food has become an art!
As you walk into the restaurant, you are greeted by a wonderful mural provided by Spanish artist Rosana Castrillo Diaz, who now lives in the area. The wooden tables and chairs in the restaurant may seem simple and simple, but they are all custom-made. The paintings on the white wall of the main hall are from the hands of local artist Tucker Nichols. Although the restaurant's decoration is basically dominated by a simple and low-key style, the art scattered throughout the corner still fills the entire restaurant with a strong artistic atmosphere, instantly turning the admired diners into a literary arts.
In order to express endless gratitude and noble tribute to the original chefs, under each dish name on the menu, Lee not only noted the main ingredients of the dish, but also specially added the name of the chef who provided the recipe, and the dish. Restaurant and year established. It is not difficult to find that the ordering of all the text descriptions on the menu is exactly the same as the introduction attached to all the artworks in the museum. The author understands this approach of the restaurant as the "culinary art" and "modern art".
However, what is the quality of these "arts", and the author said:
On a hot summer day, a pot of refreshing green tea is the most appropriate choice. And this pot of Japanese and Korean flavorBrown rice green teaIn addition to a selection of green tea leaves, a little brown rice grains made from brown rice are added. After soaking in hot water, the faint fragrance of green tea and the faint smell of black rice blend into one, refreshing. While waiting for the chef to prepare the food, why not drink a small cup of black rice tea and whisper to your friends.
After a while, a serving of delicate Japanese tea cups as a containerSea Urchin Cuisine (Uni, Fresh Nori, Panko)Began the prelude to this US food review tour. "Taste the original flavor of dishes" has been a habit of the author for many years. Therefore, a spoonful of fresh sea urchin with good quality and dense texture quickly detached from the main body and reached the mouth. Then, the unique flavor of the sea urchin came on schedule, making people Relaxed. After slightly stirring, the delicious sea urchin is carefully wrapped in the nori seaweed on the bottom of the cup and the Japanese bread is carefully wrapped. It adds color and aroma, and adds a crunchy texture. Wonderful layering. Surprisingly, this Yamato culture-rich dish was born in a Japanese restaurant "Rōnin" in Hong Kong, China.
After the cold appetizer,Brown Oyster StewSeen as the first hot dish appetizer. This stew, which was founded in 2009 in Husk, South Carolina, USA, soon attracted other diners near the table with its colorful display and rich and creamy aroma. At first glance, the milky brown rice that occupies the "half wall" in the bowl seems to be quite a big deal, but after careful tasting, it is found that the four small and exquisite top oysters hidden under Charleston cream are the protagonists. After the blessing of butter, the stewed oysters are fragrant, creamy, and smooth, with a little bacon grains, a dish that combines the essence of southern American cuisine, and you're done.
The next"Octopus and the Coral"It is a restaurant called Central from Lima, Peru, whose main ingredient is braised octopus and seaweed. The octopus after being carefully braised is full of umami, soft and tender, and the slightly sweet and spicy Peruvian-style sauce is the god's assist for this dish, so that the plate of octopus in front of it has won rare praise from friends who eat and drink. However, after adding a small cup of savory seafood broth on the plate, the whole dish can reach the perfect state. The plate was as crisp as white clouds and instantly filled with the pouring soup like a sponge. At the XNUMX second that I put it in the mouth, I finally realized the true meaning of the four words "the entrance is instant" .
While the author and friends are still relishing the aftertaste of the appetizers, one of the main dishes"The Forest"Already presented on the table. Healthy quinoa is the soil, parsley hair cake is the grass. This stew shows the forest-like vitality, and it is more like a chorus of wild mountain mushrooms. Although the author cannot tell the names of the fungi one by one, but these The various kinds of rare mushrooms spread on quinoa really make you feel like you are in the mountains. This is not just a stew, it is a gift from the mountain.
This dish served at about the same time as "Forest Stew""Liberty Duck Breast", It was just cooked by the chef, the duck skin was golden and scorched, and the duck meat was tender and juicy. With a sip, the aroma of animal fats after fried at high temperature filled the entire mouth, and the duck was full of fragrance! The main side dishes are selected from the lentil inner part of French lentils and sweet and sour apple diced, and the sauce that is the finishing touch of this duck dish is mainly made by aged red wine vinegar. It is worth mentioning that this dish is arguably the most "big-name" dish in this menu. This duck dish is provided by the legendary chef Thomas Keller, and the place where this dish is carried forward is the world-renowned and well-known French cuisine that is not in France, but in Napa Winery. The old Michelin Samsung restaurant "The French Laundry". Perhaps it was the eight years of chef Lee ’s practice in the “Laundry in the French Laundry” and a good relationship with him. This weekday meal may only be available at the Michelin Samsung restaurant that requires reservations months in advance. I can also taste it in this In Situ.
The order of appearance of each dish is very important. One point early is rushed, and one point late is redundant. And this way"Interpretation of Vanity"Appropriately appeared in front of the author at the right time, in the right place, in the right atmosphere. This dessert, created by chef Andoni Luis Aduriz in Spain, visually shows what it means to be "flashy": just one inch long chocolate mousse cake, in addition to the dazzling gold powder setting, it is also difficult to make High cocoa foam fills the entire pan. The author has always believed that beneath all the gorgeous appearances, there is a weak heart hidden. Sure enough, under the touch of a small spoon, the seemingly "high-cold" cake hidden under the foam instantly showed its soft real content and immediately embraced the spoon. After a careful taste, the simple and pure dark chocolate flavor spreads "gentlely" on the tip of the tongue, making people fascinated. The gorgeous appearance is just a cover up for this dessert. Maybe, it just wants to tell people: Only after flashy, can you know that blandness is true.
In human life, you may taste many different flavors, and the sweet and sour taste will never be forgotten, just like thisMeyer Lemon Ice Cream and Sherbet. On the left is the sourness of fresh lemons, and on the right is the sweetness, sourness, and sweetness of lemon pomelo. The two blend together for a refreshing summer.
So far, today's visit, the perfect ending .........
Foodie Frank Written on 2016.06.27
Edit | Wang Ribs is a Meow Star
[This article is reproduced from Sina Weibo@ 吃 货 Franck.CHIHUOReprinted with author's permission. Rejected Reprinted]
